Is the Disc Brake Hardware Different From Left to Right on 76 Bronco

I searched loftier and low for a disc brake conversion kit for my �73 Bronco. It seems nigh everybody sells the Chevy/Ford conversion, not to mention they charge nigh $800 +tax and shipping. I don�t mind using parts from other vehicles to make an upgrade or modification just I do want to try and stay with the same manufacturer. Through my research I continued to observe manufactures briefly mentioning a conversion that used all Ford parts. Well I finally tracked down the twelvemonth of the vehicles I needed to notice. Had I known I was going to write this I would accept taken more pictures at each step. The process must exist is adequately easy to practise if I was able to do it. Happy reading!

At that place is a catch to this conversion. Your necktie-rod won�t fit correctly in the new steering duke. There are a couple of options to resolve this, I went with number two. I had actually purchased the necktie-rod over conversion prior to doing anything with the disc brake conversion. The tie-rod over conversion moves your tie-rod upward most iii� giving you less risk to catch information technology on something while wheelin�. Information technology as well helps negate the effects of a lift on your steering. So I�m told � it�s nonetheless sitting on my garage flooring and I�m a long way from getting my automobile on the road. Anyhow, here are the 2 options as I see them.

1. BC Broncos has some adapter bushings that should permit you to use your stock necktie-rod. Call Chuck @ (888) 304-2945 or visit their web site www.bcbroncos.com and go to steering.
2. Buy the tie-rod over conversion from BC Broncos.

Starting the conversion

Detect a '78-'79 Bronco or a '73-'79 F150 (I used a '79 Bronco) and purchase everything from the knuckle out. I paid $250. This may exist a bit loftier simply they did all of the piece of work to pull it off. You lot don't really need the rotor or caliper but I didn't know how cheap the caliper and hub/rotor assembly was when I bought these parts. Live and learn. The just reason you might desire to go ahead and become everything from the knuckle out is and then you lot get all of the hardware necessary for assembly. The vehicle I institute didn't have the locking hubs simply I had a new set of Warn's just waiting to exist installed (Warn hubs non included in toll of conversion).

You may ask what is the "knuckle" and what is included when you get everything from the knuckle out? Well the knuckle, or steering knuckle, is the piece that has the upper and lower ball joints and is connected to the axle housing. There is an arm that sticks out towards the forepart of the vehicle; this is used to connect the necktie-rod. All components of the cycle are ultimately connected to the vehicle via the knuckle. Yous'll understand that argument a chip better one time you have started this conversion. Run into the picture in step #iv for the location of a steering knuckle.

As I understand information technology, the following items are included when you get everything from the knuckle out: Notation: The items in assuming are things that are "must accept" items. The other items are items you lot tin buy at your local parts store. You may be able to get the locking nut/lockring washer/adjusting nut and the caliper support primal and leap from a parts store or maybe a Ford dealership. I got those items from the parts yard and so I take no thought if you lot tin can go them elsewhere.

• The knuckle
• The brake backing plate
• The caliper holder (Haynes calls this the Anchor plate)
• The spindle
• Inner and outer wheel bearings and bearing races (inside the hub/rotor assembly. Definitely should be replaced)
• Hub/rotor assembly
• Bike begetting locking nut, lockring washer (washer with several holes effectually the center hole), wheel bearing adjusting nut
• Caliper (maybe the brake lines)
• The caliper support key and jump
• Locking hubs (you'll probably want to replace these anyway so I would worry well-nigh this role)

The only pieces I actually used from the �79 Bronco were:

• The knuckle
• The brake backing plate
• The caliper holder (Haynes calls this the Anchor plate)
• The spindle
• Bicycle begetting locking nut, lockring washer (washer with several holes around the center hole), wheel bearing adjusting nut
• The caliper support key and leap

Note: When I�m doing a project I volition mostly replace a part because I�g at that place and I know information technology is quondam rather than waiting for it to wear out and need replacing.

The rotor in most cases will demand to be replaced (my needed it bad). The calipers should be rebuilt while you are there simply I�ll leave that upwards to you. I could take cleaned and rebuilt the calipers I got from the �79 Bronco but I but went alee and bought new calipers (see my parts list for prices) to save time. The following is the list of parts I replaced: (all part numbers are from Autozone unless otherwise noted)

Particular	Part #	Cost	Qty.	Full
Brawl Joints - Upper	037366	$17.99	2	$35.98
Brawl Joints - Lower	201749	$17.99	2	$35.98
Caliper - Left (has FORD logo stamped on metal)	208360	$xi.99	1	$xi.99
Caliper - Correct (has FORD logo stamped on metal)	208314	$11.99	one	$11.99
Wheel Bearing - Inner	788737	$12.99	2	$25.98
Wheel Bearing - Outer	788422	$10.99	ii	$21.98
Seal (holds inner bicycle begetting in identify)	012035	$3.69	ii	$7.38
Rotor & Hub assembly (made in Canada)	048859	$31.99	2	$63.98
Disc Brake Pads	MKD50V	$10.99	2	$21.98
Bolt to agree retaining key & spring	?	?	2	?
Spindle Diameter Seal Kit (from local Ford dealer)	SBK1	$12.00	2	$24.00
Anti-Rattle Clips	704460	$1.69	1	$1.69
				$251.94

You may not need all of these parts, it will depend on the condition of your donor vehicle. My donor Bronco was missing the key retaining spiral and I�ve seen other Bronco�s that simply utilize a bolt and washer. All of these parts can be establish at other places for more coin if you experience improve nearly a products quality considering information technology costs more than. Not that I don�t call back �you lot get what you pay for� just in this case I think these are good quality parts. Once I had all the parts it was time for the fun stuff.

Note: All torque specs are either from the 1973 Ford Truck shop manuals or from a �73-�79 Haynes Ford Pickup & Bronco transmission, unless otherwise noted. You may desire to double check the torque specs for your yr.

Removal/Installation procedure

Note: Pay close attention to how things come apart. This will help you with some of the reassembly. Also almost every part should be labeled with left (L) or correct (R). Left and right are as if yous where sitting in the Bronco. Be sure that you bank check that you�re on the correct side of the Bronco for the part you have in your hand. 1 last thing before you move ane with the conversion, the knuckle stud configuration is setup and so y'all can�t put the correct part on incorrectly. This will become articulate during the associates of the parts. Take your time and have fun!

i. Remove the existing wheel locks, drums/brake assembly, spindle and knuckle. I already had my necktie-rod removed then I won�t cover that piece. This removal of the drums, etc. was done by the store that rebuilt my axles so I�ll only exist able to detail the pieces I know. Too, taking it apart is the easy function � right? Remove everything to the right of the line (on both sides). See the moving-picture show simply earlier pace two.

1. The removal of the bicycle locks should exist cocky explanatory.
2. You will need a special socket to remove/install the wheal bearing locknut and the wheel bearing adjusting nut. I bought mine at Kragen. There is a lockring washer between these two nuts that has several holes in it. The cycle begetting adjusting nut has a small pin that goes into one of the holes of the retaining washer. You may or may non run into this pin; it may have been pushed into the nut due to improper assembly. One time you accept removed the cycle bearing adjusting nut you tin can utilise a small smash to button the pin out. This hardware should be interchangeable with the spindles from your donor vehicle and you can employ them if you want.
3. I believe the wheel drum and backing plate will come off equally one piece but I may be incorrect. The beam shop did this part (I asked them to exit it off since I was going to disc brakes. If it doesn't come off every bit one piece you'll have to remove the drum and figure it out, pitiful.
4. Remove the cotter pin from the upper brawl joint and loosen the castle nut. I believe you can get a wrench on the lower ball joint'due south nut without removing your axle; you may have to turn the yoke on the beam housing to give you a flake more room. Then to remove the steering knuckle use a hammer (dead blow, five lb sledge, etc) and hit the castle nut on the upper ball joint. This volition, eventually, crusade the steering knuckle to comes loose. End removing the nuts on the upper and lower brawl joint while property the steering knuckle so it doesn't drop on the outer axle shaft.

two. Before installing whatsoever of the new parts from the �79 Bronco I bead blasted them and then painted.

three. And then I used a ball joint press to remove the old ball joints from the �79 Bronco duke and then install the new ball joints. You can borrow this tool from Autozone for free. Information technology took a fleck to effigy out the all-time way to use it but one time you get information technology working it�s easy. I wish I had a picture of this but I was so into information technology once information technology started working that I forgot all near the camera. The brawl joint press I used looked like a big C-clamp with a large slice of all-thread. The all-time tip I tin give yous is put the C-clench piece in a vise and then it will hold everything for yous will you use a ratchet/breaker-bar to press the ball joints in/out.

1. The upper ball joints come with a zerk plumbing equipment and a plug. The reason for this you lot need the zerk plumbing fixtures to put grease in the brawl joint but y'all can�t go out information technology in place because it will interfere with the axle as information technology turns. You must install the plug fitting after y'all put the grease in. The lower ball joint but comes with a zerk fitting.

iv. Install the steering knuckles on your axle. Torque the height ball joint to 90ft-lbs. I also put 90ft-lbs of torque on the lower ball articulation, though I was unable to notice a specific line particular stating this setting.

5. At this point I noticed the spindle bore seal on my axle was weathered and croaky. Autozone didn�t even know what it was even when I showed them the pictures below then I picked information technology up at the local Ford dealership. It was cheaper to buy the kit that comes with the spindle diameter seal and a few other parts than to just buy the seal lone. I actually used i of the other pieces � a wheel begetting spacer. It�due south a expert thing because one of the original spacers didn�t go far back from the axle shop. Optional - Install the spindle diameter seal and any of the other parts.

6. Install the brake backing plate. They are characterization left and right and should only go along at the right angle. Yous�ll understand when you lot endeavour to install them. See picture in step #8.

seven. Install the caliper holder. Once again they are labeled and should only continue one fashion. See picture in step #8.

8. Install the spindle. Tighten the basics in a star pattern to make sure it goes in evenly. Torque the basics to xxx - 40ft-lbs.

ix. Earlier you can install the hub/rotor assembly you have to install the inner cycle bearing and seal (I think it�southward called the inner wheel bearing seal) listed above, part #012035. If yous go the same hub/rotor assembly every bit I did you lot�ll notice that both the inner and outer bearing races are already installed. So yous will cease up with iv extra begetting races. Be sure and grease the bearings good before yous install them. The inner wheel begetting seal is a scrap of a pain to install. I covered the seal (metal and rubber) with a grease rag and lightly hit it with a hammer and a 6� socket extension until it was tightly seated.

x. Install the outer wheel bearing, don�t forget the grease!

11. Take the wheel begetting adjusting nut on hand for this part. Make sure the pin is sticking out of the adjusting nut; you�ll need it later in this step. Install the hub/rotor assembly and be careful not to knock the outer cycle bearing out. Push button the hub/rotor into place and you should experience information technology seat. Install the wheel bearing adjusting nut and �Tighten the adjusting nut to l ft-lbs while rotating the wheel/hub assembly to seat the bearings. Back the adjusting nut of approximately ninety degrees� � quoted from the Haynes manual (�73 Ford Truck shop manuals say the same thing).

12. The lockring washer goes on adjacent. Information technology has a natural language that volition only allow it to go on the spindle one manner. This is trickery than yous may recollect; the pin on the adjusting nut mentioned in #xi must become through one of the holes of the lockring. If it does not, remove the lockring and adjust the wheel bearing adjusting nut to allow the pin to go through the nearest hole in the lockring.

13. Install the cycle bearing lock nut and torque to lxxx-100 ft-lbs. Cheque this specification for you vehicle. The moving picture below is the installed hub/rotor.

14. Now the calipers. I�ve done disc brakes before but I must admit the Ford floating caliper seems weird. Install the anti-rattle prune in the bottom of the inner shoe and set the shoe in the caliper holder. Install the outer shoe in the caliper and place the caliper on the caliper holder. See the pic beneath.

fifteen. Have the caliper support jump and cardinal and install them every bit described in the picture beneath. Install the fundamental retaining screw (or a bolt and washer) and torque 12-20 ft-lbs.

And the final production�..

That�s pretty much information technology. I am still working on the brake lines; you can�t just buy �79 lines because the lines are to long. I may just cut them down and put new ends on. We�ll see. I�ll update this document when I do. Information technology should be in the side by side week or so. If yous have any questions just transport me an eastward-mail.

Ryan Flud
rflud@itprisms.com

This file also available in PDF format for Adobe Acrobat.

Update � 2.22.02 Since I wrote this commodity I take constitute the knuckles and spindles from the range of years listed above for much less than the $250 I paid. I have come up to the determination that the place I purchased my parts from is extremely expensive. Keep an eye out for eBay auctions that are selling these parts and don't forget to check your local paper or the wrecking yards in your area. I have seen everything from the knuckle out equally low as $40 (for both sides). Naturally this made me ill to my stomach. But the money is spent and the parts are installed. My proposition � be patient and expect for a skilful deal not an amazing bargain. If yous wait for the amazing deal you will have pulsate brake for a very long fourth dimension. I was able to use my original brake difficult lines. New flex lines from the caliper to the hard lines are required. I purchased the lines from BC Broncos (www.bcbroncos.com). They are stainless steel braided brake lines. You can get regular safety flex lines for much less, just make sure you become D.O.T (Department of Transportation) certified lines. Take a look at the picture below.

No matter which disc brake conversion y'all do (Chevy or Ford) y'all volition want to install a proportioning valve. I have notwithstanding to exercise this; I'm still in the process of rebuilding my EB. I've seen proportioning valve range from $50 to $110 depending on the blazon of proportioning valve. The standard proportioning valve y'all will see on most trucks (and stock '76-'77 EB's) goes for about $ninety to $110. I will be to this point presently and I volition include the pictures and install tips in this commodity when I'm done.

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